These have turned out well for a second pair of socks ever, and the first in 12 years 🙂 The pattern was easy to follow once I understood the way the chart worked, and I certainly didn’t need to refer to it row by row after the first repeat. The first sock I completed was the one worn in the lefthand photo (right foot).
- Pattern: Pomatomus by Cookie A.
- Yarn: 90g Jojoland melody, (just under 2 50g balls), color ms16.
- Needles: two 2.75mm 40cm circular bamboo.
- New technique attempted: stretchy sock cast on from the Twisted Sisters Sock Workbook.
I worked the cuffs of both socks at the same time, with the idea that I’d do the whole of the pair of socks the same way. I ended up putting one sock on waste yarn after I’d completed the set up row for two reasons:
- I realised that the patterned section of the leg could only be worked according to the pattern if I did one sock at a time on two circulars. This is because at the end of each pattern repeat, you have to swap a stitch from the start of one needle to the end of the other.
- When I was working the cuffs, I realised I was getting a ladder forming in each cuff at the join between needles closest to each pair of needle points. The two joins next to eachother in the centre of the needles weren’t affected. The ‘ladder’ was due to the stresses on the yarn produced by bending the needles round to work each half-row. The outer joins were too close to the end of the needles. With a longer set of needles, say 50-60cm, the stress would be less because the joins would be further from the end of the needles and the ladder wouldn’t form.
I worked this first pair almost according to the pattern…
- I knit deeper cuffs like I intended, because they’d look right stretched on my leg.
- I worked half a pattern repeat less in the leg to compensate for the difference between my row gauge and that stated in the pattern. My stitch gauge was the same as the pattern’s, after some experimentation.
- I worked a short row heel on both socks, with twisted rib when short-rowing down and stockinette on the way back up.
- I reversed the pattern on the second sock, and sorted the problem with holes that were too big by purling (when the pattern called for it) through the back of the yarnover loop on the preceding row, instead of just a normal purl as per pattern. This allowed the yarnover loop to be worked off the needle twisted, the same as when knitting through the back of the loop.
- I ditched the idea of piggy-toes when I realised that the socks wouldn’t look right on me. They fit fine – it was just that the pattern was too stretched out for my taste. They look great on their new owner 🙂
To reproduce these as is
jojoland melody. CO 72 st, work 16 rows rib instead of 10, 2.5 pattern repeats for leg (chart A), short row heel; on foot, finish pattern from chart A on top of foot, then work two more repeats using chart B, toe as per pattern.
Minor Inspiration: – I just realised if you wanted to work both socks at the same time, using chart B throughout might just work. Treat each circular needle as the ‘top’ of the foot when working the leg. I’ll have to experiment…