These are the three sock projects I’m currently working on, or avoiding 😉
Top of the picture: the first completed spiral boot sock, in mystery 2ply cotton held double. It stops just short of the wide bit of the calf. Knee high socks in a gauge of 10 or 11 st per inch didn’t appeal. Just below it you can see the second sock languishing at half way to the gusset increases.
The stripy pair to the right of the second sock are a set of toe-up ‘Pomatomus’ in Tofutsies ‘stand on your own 2 feet’. They’re based on a repeat of 14 st instead of 12. I’m currently trying to decide when to start the gusset increases on these, as they are turning out a lot tighter than I’d hoped, and I may need to work in a set of increases over the arch/instep as well.
Last but by no means least, in the bottom left of the picture lie the pair of toe-up ‘Spring Forward’. They elbowed their way onto the needles last Friday. I’d just discovered the new Knitty, and the kureyon sock yarn had been calling again from its not-so-secret hiding place. I’m about to turn the heel and work the flap, so these are positively racing along 🙂
These have turned out well for a second pair of socks ever, and the first in 12 years 🙂 The pattern was easy to follow once I understood the way the chart worked, and I certainly didn’t need to refer to it row by row after the first repeat. The first sock I completed was the one worn in the lefthand photo (right foot).
- Pattern: Pomatomus by Cookie A.
- Yarn: 90g Jojoland melody, (just under 2 50g balls), color ms16.
- Needles: two 2.75mm 40cm circular bamboo.
- New technique attempted: stretchy sock cast on from the Twisted Sisters Sock Workbook.
I worked the cuffs of both socks at the same time, with the idea that I’d do the whole of the pair of socks the same way. I ended up putting one sock on waste yarn after I’d completed the set up row for two reasons:
- I realised that the patterned section of the leg could only be worked according to the pattern if I did one sock at a time on two circulars. This is because at the end of each pattern repeat, you have to swap a stitch from the start of one needle to the end of the other.
- When I was working the cuffs, I realised I was getting a ladder forming in each cuff at the join between needles closest to each pair of needle points. The two joins next to eachother in the centre of the needles weren’t affected. The ‘ladder’ was due to the stresses on the yarn produced by bending the needles round to work each half-row. The outer joins were too close to the end of the needles. With a longer set of needles, say 50-60cm, the stress would be less because the joins would be further from the end of the needles and the ladder wouldn’t form.
I worked this first pair almost according to the pattern…
- I knit deeper cuffs like I intended, because they’d look right stretched on my leg.
- I worked half a pattern repeat less in the leg to compensate for the difference between my row gauge and that stated in the pattern. My stitch gauge was the same as the pattern’s, after some experimentation.
- I worked a short row heel on both socks, with twisted rib when short-rowing down and stockinette on the way back up.
- I reversed the pattern on the second sock, and sorted the problem with holes that were too big by purling (when the pattern called for it) through the back of the yarnover loop on the preceding row, instead of just a normal purl as per pattern. This allowed the yarnover loop to be worked off the needle twisted, the same as when knitting through the back of the loop.
- I ditched the idea of piggy-toes when I realised that the socks wouldn’t look right on me. They fit fine – it was just that the pattern was too stretched out for my taste. They look great on their new owner 🙂
To reproduce these as is
jojoland melody. CO 72 st, work 16 rows rib instead of 10, 2.5 pattern repeats for leg (chart A), short row heel; on foot, finish pattern from chart A on top of foot, then work two more repeats using chart B, toe as per pattern.
Minor Inspiration: – I just realised if you wanted to work both socks at the same time, using chart B throughout might just work. Treat each circular needle as the ‘top’ of the foot when working the leg. I’ll have to experiment…
Earlier this week, I finished another blanket square / wtp swatch, and cast on for the next. I’m going to finish five before photographing and uploading them to the wtp blog. It makes more sense to do the write-ups in batches.
This weekend was a ‘craftwork’ gathering round at a friend’s house. There were seven of us working on various sewing/knitting/needlepoint projects as well as chatting, drinking wine and setting the world to rights 🙂 I turned the heel of the 2nd pomatomus sock – it went much better this time.
I reckon I should be able to finish the sock by next Sunday. Then I can start working with the charcoal linen my SP sent – am really looking forward to that!
Finished the first reversed pattern repeat on the second sock. Am really pleased it worked out.
The holes in this one are a lot more even too, and I think I know why – it’s something to do with the way I’m doing the yarnovers and then the knit/purl into the resulting loop on the next round. When I knit into the back of the yo loop, in keeping with the pattern, the loop is slipped off the needle crossed. On the first sock, when I purled into the loop (as per the pattern) I just purled normally, so the loop was slipped off the needle uncrossed. On the second sock, I started purling into the back of the loop and the loop slipped off the needle crossed. This seems to be producing a more even fabric.. hmm.
In the picture the finished sock is folded flat with the foot hidden, just to compare the start of the legs. (The back of the heel is visible.) The finished sock has already been tried on by its new owner, so is slightly looser than when it was first finished. To make an effective comparison, the sock on the needles has a piece of rolled card inside it to stretch out the pattern slightly.
Finally! The first of the pomatomus socks is off the needles 🙂 There would be a picture, but my camera’s in the office. Even the grafting went well. The last time I did kitchener stitch was at least 12 years ago, and that’s also the last (and first) time I knitted socks.
I turned the first altered pomatomus heel! wahay! 🙂
Down side – I tried the sock on and like many other folk, I found it is way too stretched out. The pattern almost looks like diamonds in fact, all because I have chunky legs. Actually, a medic told me once that they look like a male hockey player’s legs. [Ok, I played hockey for the school team many moons ago, but I ain’t a bloke.] hmm.
But I digress. I messed up the set up row with too many yarn overs. I didn’t notice that before! The heel has a few gaps, and I’m concerned about the size of the gaps from the yarn overs in the general pattern. I refuse to frog this. I’m going to do my best to make the second one with less mistakes, and darn the unintentional gaps in this one.
Up side – I understand the pattern well enough to enlarge the repeat for the same size yarn, allowing for a wider sock to be produced. The repeats would be wider and longer, meaning for the same sock length, you’d need to work fewer repeats – depending on gauge of course.
The first pattern repeat is complete on one leg. Ok there were a couple of mistakes which I managed to correct or hide, but overall it’s rather encouraging 🙂
Now that it’s more fun to do, I reckon I can get the legs and heels done by a week Saturday. At which point I’ll see if I can start working em both at the same time again. The picture here shows the one sock on the needles and above it the cuff for the other one loitering on some waste yarn til I get to it.
Hmm, I’m having to rip & restart the next swatch for wtp – I miscounted the no of stitches cast on. Thankfully only 6 rows in!
And these socks – aargh! I’ve had to move one of em off the circulars to waste yarn, because they really won’t work both at once for the leg after the cuff is complete. Might be able to work both feet at once, because the pattern is then working off a different chart. I also had to rip part of the one where I reversed the pattern, because I forgot to shift the yo to the end of the round before starting – oops!
On the plus side the reversed chart does work now I’ve figured out where the round should start 🙂