Chameleon - hat Chameleon - scarf Chameleon - balaclava Chameleon - head band Chameleon - Sahariane


Fits average to large adult head, up to 24/25 inches circumference.

Finished Measurements

Circumference: 20″/51cm
Length: 20″/51cm


  • Yarn: 100g pure linen, 18 wpi, charcoal.
  • Needles: 1 x 3.25mm and 1 x 4mm 80cm circulars (magic/lazy loop), or alternatives for preferred technique and to achieve gauge.


Aim for about 5.5 st per inch, and 10 -12 rows per inch in stockinette on 3.25mm needles.


k = knit
p = purl
k2tog = knit 2 together
k3tog = knit 3 together (slanting not symmetrical)
yo = yarn over

chameleon charts

The black squares in the chart are for no stitches. When you encounter them in a round, just jump over them and work the next instruction in that same round.



Using 3.25mm circular needle, cast on 108 st knitwise.

Round 1: p
Round 2: k
Round 3: p
Round 4 – 21: follow chart A above, working 9 repeats each round. Knit odd rounds, except for round 11 which is included in chart A.
Round 22 – 24: as rounds 1 – 3.

Round 25: (k11, k2tog) 8 times, k to end – should have 100 st left

Main part (net)

Swap to 4mm needles

Round 26: (yo, k2tog) to end
Round 27: (p1, k1) to end
Round 28: (k2tog, yo) to end
Round 29: (k1, p1) to end

These four rounds form the netting pattern (see chart B above).

Repeat rounds 26 to 29 until you have about 6grams of yarn left, or enough to do another 9 rounds.

The work will hopefully measure roughly 19 inches long at this point.

Repeat rounds 1 – 2 four times, forming an 8 row garter st border.

Cast off loosely. (Suspended bind off works well).


Break yarn, and weave in ends. With any luck, all you’ll have left over after this is about 2 ft of yarn.

Wash and block lightly, then try it on and find your favourite way of wearing it!

© 2007 – zeph, all rights reserved. For personal use only.


21 thoughts on “Chameleon

  1. What a great pattern! I’ve been tinkering with the idea of making a balaclava-style thingy because I’ve just moved from Australia to northern Finland, and now I think I’ve found something that doesn’t make me look like a bank robber! Thanks so much for posting this, it’s a lovely pattern.


  2. am new to these yarns am a red heart type yarn. can you tell me what pure linen you used for this project want to make one for son and grandson. thank you

  3. That’s a good question – the linen yarn I used was a gift from a friend.

    There isn’t a specific ‘make’ per se, but it is handspun and has about 18 wraps per inch.
    The skein is in this picture:
    2nd packet

    1. Hi there 🙂 It is in the round, but you could work it flat and seam it if you liked. All the best, Zeph

  4. if you were going to work it flat, what would the difference be? and if I needed it to be denser, (think WOOL) would this pattern still work? I LOVE how verstile it would be, I just hope that I use it with the materials I have picked. Its use will be in weather up to -50 F. Thanks for your help! Great site!

  5. Great design! But I don’t understand this part: “The black squares in the chart are for no stitches. When you encounter them in a round, just jump over them and work the next instruction in that same round.” What do you mean? 1)Just slip each stitch without knitting? 2)If you just SKIP them, those stitches will run and create ladders, won’t they? 3)Some other technique entirely? Help! I’m in the dark here!

    1. Hi sissy,

      Black squares are a ‘space filler’.

      Perhaps I phrased it unclearly, but they are present in the chart only to allow the -actual- stitches to line up correctly. They do not represent a stitch at all (hence the ‘no stitches’ phrase).

      1. Can you clarify the “no stitches” a bit more? Should i just be moving the stitches over to the other needle without knitting them? Or am I dropping them off the needle entirely? If I am dropping them, how do I go about getting the stich back a few rows later? The “jump over” and “no stitches” are utterly confusing me!

  6. I was very intrigued by your pattern the first time I saw it on Ravelry. I marked it as a favorite but didn’t print out the pattern. I am probably an advanced beginner knitter but was digging in my stash and found some yaran I had acquired in a Christmas swap a couple of years ago. It is a very fine mystery yarn in a golden to brown color. So I printed out the pattern today. Thanks so much for a very interesting pattern.

  7. Still confused by the “skip stitches” phrase. If you don’t work the stitches won’t they stick out funny and give it a wierd shape?

    1. If I figured this out correctly, skip stiches doesn’t mean that you are skipping anything on the actual piece. It just means that where the black boxes are in the pattern you don’t do anything, and continue on. I translated out the pattern, and hopefully I’m right. But here is how row 4 should work out: Round 4: k2, Yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k2.

      I took out the black ‘skip’ boxes, and that’s what youre left with. It helps form all the loops and whirls and holes. Hopefully that helps.

  8. I’m curious, do you overlap the pattern when you work the 9 rounds? I can never fit the 9 rounds onto the beginning 108 k stitches. I’ve tried multiple times to get this pattern going but since i’m still a beginner at knitting then i’m completely in the dark as to whether i’m doing it right. Can someone try making a video? That would be insanely helpful for us people who are barely learning and what to make this fascinating pattern

  9. Love this pattern but it still doesn’t fit my hubby’s big, Kennedy – size head. How do I make it bigger? He can fit it on his head but he can’t make any of the different ways to wear it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

  10. The black boxes freaked me out, too, when I first encountered them in a pattern. But think of it this way: Have you ever seen a world map, with wedges cut out at the top and bottom? That’s because in the 3-D planet, the edges come together and make a round ball. But to put it on flat paper, something has to give.

    In the chart for this pattern, the black boxes mean that there will be increasing or decreasing going on, and the black boxes enable the chart to show the stitch that will remain to to line up exactly under or over the stitch in the finished product.

    So where there were two stitches there will now be one, or the reverse — where there was one, there will be two. The black boxes take the place of the non-existent stitch, because paper is flat, not 3-D.

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