A pattern that was a surprise success and born of necessity. I created it as I went along, using up some yarn I found in an out-of-the-way knitting shop. The result is a remarkably comfortable pair of thick warm socks with a sole that feels almost padded when you walk around in them.
The cuff, foot and toe instructions apply equally to circulars or dpns. The heel instructions are broken down into several sections, each of which is clearly marked as applying to circulars, or dpns, or both.
To fit a female foot: european size 40-41, UK shoe size 6.5 – 7.
Top of cuff to base of heel = 6.5 in / 16.5cm
Back of heel to toe = 9.5 in / 24cm
Circumference (ball of foot) = 9 in / 23cm
These are approximate, and taken over the outside of the sock after they’ve been worn.
- 200g of chunky yarn which suggests that it requires 8mm needles – 100g for each sock.
The yarn used for this pair was 2x100g balls of “Braemar” by Stylecraft, shade 3280, dye 4513 with no yardage given but the suggestion that 8mm needles were required.
- 5mm, 2 x 4ocm circulars (socks on 2 circulars), or set of 5 x 5mm dpns.
- 20st and 20 rows over 4 in /10cm for the twisted rib.
- 16st and 26 rows over 4 in /10cm for the heel and sole stitch.
- Tapestry needle.
The thicker wool used gives a firm but springy fabric that should stand up to being walked around on without shoes.
st = stitch(es)
k = knit
p = purl
k2tog = knit 2 together
k1 tbl = k1 through the back of the loop
sl1 = slip 1 st
k2tog tbl = knit 2 together through back of the 2 loops
ssk = slip 2 stitches knitwise, one at a time onto right needle; insert point of left needle into front of 2 slipped stitches; knit through back of loops with right needle.
w&t = Wrap and turn. Bring yarn to opposite side of work between needles, slip next st to right-hand needle, bring yarn around this st back to the original side of work, slip st back to left-hand needle, turn work to begin working back in the other direction. (Remember to pick up and knit the wraps together with the wrapped stitches on the following row!)
Cast on 36 stitches using a long tail cast on. Arrange st evenly on 2 circulars (18st on each) or 3 dpns (12 st on each), with the start of the round at the start of ‘needle 1’.
Knit 20 rounds of twisted rib (k1 tbl, p1) to form the cuff.
Worked over 19 st.
On 2 circulars: move 1 st from the start of needle 2 to the end of needle 1. Needle 1 now holds your 19 heel st, and needle 2 holds the st for the top of the foot.
From 3 dpns: move all 12 stitches from needle 3 and 5 st from the end of needle 2 to waste yarn. Then, move the remaining 19 st to 1 dpn, or redistribute them over 2 dpn (9 st on needle 1 and 10 on needle 2 ) – whichever works best.
Flap (circ + dpn)
Working back and forth:
Row 1: (k1 tbl, sl1) to last st, k1 tbl.
Row 2: (p1 k1) to last st, p1.
These two rows form the heel/sole pattern on the flat.
Repeat the 2 rows 8 times more (18 rows total).
Turning (circ + dpn)
Now on to turning the heel, still working back and forth in heel pattern:
Row 1: Work to the last 8 st, k2tog and turn work.
Row 2: sl1, work to last 8 st, k2tog and turn work.
Repeat row 2, working the heel pattern to the last st before the gap, k2tog over the gap, and turning the work to start the next row. Work back and forth until you’ve done all the st and you have 5 st remaining on the needle(s). (If you are using dpns, put all 5 st on one needle)
Next comes the gusset. You start by aiming to pick up 10 st down either side of the heel flap, and work 2 rounds to reestablish heel/sole pattern (centred on the five heel st) alongside the twisted rib on top of the foot.
Gusset start (circ)
Using the start of needle 1, pick up 10 st down one side of the heel flap, before the 5 stitches already on the needle. Using the end of the same needle, pick up another 10 st down the side of the heel flap after the 5 st already on the needle. You should now have 25 st on needle 1 and 17 st on needle 2. It will look like you’re part way through the heel section of ’round 1′. That’s ok. Work the following 2 rounds:
Round 1: slip 11 st, (k1 tbl, sl1) 7 times, p1, (k1 tbl, p1) 8 times.
Round 2: p1, (k1 tbl, p1) 12 times, p1, (k1 tbl, p1) 8 times.
Gusset start (4 dpns)
Using a spare dpn, pick up 10 st down one side of the heel flap, before the 5 stitches on the other needle. This is your new needle 1. The needle with only 5 st left on it is your new needle 2. Using another spare dpn, pick up 10 st down the side of the heel flap after needle 2. This is needle 3. You should have 25 heel st on 3 needles. Place the 17 st from the waste yarn onto another dpn (needle 4). The working yarn should be waiting at the start of needle 2. This is where it should be. Work the following 2 rounds:
Round 1: Starting at the beginning of needle 2 – sl1, (k1 tbl, sl1) 7 times, p1, (k1 tbl, p1) 8 times. You should have just finished working the twisted rib on the top of the foot, before needle 1.
Round 2: Starting with needle 1 – p1, (k1 tbl, p1) 12 times, p1, (k1 tbl, p1) 8 times. This time you worked all 4 needles.
Redistribute the stitches: Move 2 st from the start of needle 2 to the end of needle 1. Slip the remaining 3 st from needle 2 to the start of needle 3. Old needle 3 becomes your new needle 2. Move 8 of the st from the start of needle four to the spare dpn, which now becomes your new needle 3.
Gusset decreases (circ and dpn)
The gusset start is the trickiest bit – it gets more straightforward from here. Promise! The position of the various k2tog and k2tog tbl in the following 7 rounds re-establish and maintain a ‘continuous’ rib between heel/sole st and top of foot. You should be starting with 42 st.
Round 1: k2tog, sl1, (k1 tbl, sl1) 10 times, k2tog tbl, p1, (k1 tbl, p1) 8 times. (40 st)
Round 2: (k1 tbl, p1) 11 times, (k1 tbl, p1) 9 times.
Round 3: (k1 tbl, sl1) 11 times, (k1 tbl, p1) 9 times.
Round 4: k2tog tbl, (k1 tbl, p1) 9 times, k1 tbl, k2tog, p1, (k1 tbl, p1) 8 times. (38 st)
Round 5: k1 tbl, (k1 tbl, sl1) 9 times, k1 tbl, (k1 tbl, p1) 9 times.
Round 6: k1 tbl, (k1 tbl, p1) 9 times, k1 tbl, (k1 tbl, p1) 9 times.
Round 7: k2tog tbl, sl1 (k1 tbl, sl1) 8 times, k2tog tbl, p1, (k1 tbl, p1) 8 times. (36 st)
Work the following:
Round 1: (k1 tbl, p1) to end
Round 2: (k1 tbl, sl1) 9 times, (k1 tbl, p1) 9 times.
Repeat these 2 rows another 10 times, (22 rows so far).
Work round 1 again.
Once you’ve reached this stage, it’ll be fairly apparent that the top of the foot looks longer than the sole. The toe section incorporates a few short rows worked back and forth on the sole of the foot. These compensate well for the discrepancy.
Round 1: (k1 tbl, sl1) 8 times, k1 tbl, w&t, (p1, k1) 7 times, p1, w&t, (k1 tbl, sl1) 8 times, (k1 tbl, p1) 9 times.
Round 2: k2tog tbl, (k1 tbl, p1) 7 times, k1 tbl, w&t, (p1, sl1) 7 times, w&t, (p1, k1 tbl) 7 times, k2tog twice, p1, (k1 tbl, p1) 6 times, k2tog tbl. (32 st)
Round 3: k1, (k1 tbl, sl1) 7 times, k1 tbl, k2, p1, (k1 tbl, p1) 6 times, k1.
Round 4: ssk, p1, (k1 tbl, p1) 6 times, k2tog, ssk, (k1 tbl, p1) 5 times, k1 tbl, k2tog. (28 st)
Round 5: k1, sl1 (k1 tbl, sl1) 6 times, k2, (k1 tbl, p1) 5 times, k1 tbl, k1.
Round 6: ssk, (k1 tbl, p1) 5 times, k1 tbl, k2tog, ssk, p1 (k1 tbl, p1) 4 times, k2tog. (24 st)
Round 7: k1, (k1 tbl, sl1) 5 times, w&t, (k1, p1) 4 times, k1, w&t, (sl1, k1 tbl) 5 times, k2, p1 (k1 tbl, p1) 4 times, k1.
Round 8: ssk, p1, (k1 tbl, p1) 4 times, k2tog, ssk, (k1 tbl, p1) 3 times, k1 tbl, k2tog. (20 st)
Round 9: k1, sl1, (k1 tbl, sl1) 4 times, k2, (k1 tbl, p1) 3 times, k1 tbl, k1.
Round 10: ssk, (k1 tbl, p1) 3 times, k1 tbl, k2tog, ssk p1 (k1 p1) twice, k2tog. (16 st)
Round 11: ssk, sl1 (k1 tbl, sl1) twice, k2tog, k1 p1 (k1 p1) twice k1. (14 st)
With any luck, you have about 18 in of yarn left, but if you have more, break the yarn leaving a 12 to 18 in tail. Use a tapestry needle to kitchener the end of the toe together. Thread the remaining yarn through to the wrong side and weave it back and forth across the top of the foot, to reinforce the area over the toes (in particular the big toe).
Weave in any other loose ends.
© 2007 – zeph, all rights reserved. For personal use only.