The newer small/medium hat fits anything from child-size to average adult heads, up to 21/22 inches circumference. The medium/large original version fits any average to large adult head, up to 24/25 inches circumference.
The different sizes are achieved by using different needles.
Finished Measurements and Gauge
- Small/Medium = 19-20″/48-51cm; 5 stitches per inch
- Medium/Large (original) = 22-23″/55-57.5cm; 4.5 stitches per inch
- MC – Noro Kureyon, 50 grams (1 skein)
- CC – Toning solid colour 50grams – look for one with the same gauge as the kureyon. You shouldn’t need the full 50g.
- Tapestry needle
- Needle options :
- Small/medium hat – 4mm needles, either one 80cm circular (magic loop) or one 4ocm circular and a set of dpns, or just the dpns.
- Medium/large hat – 4.5mm needles, as above.
K = knit
P = purl
WT = wrap and turn
sl = slip stitch
st = stitch(es)
pm = place marker
sm = slip marker
K2tog = knit 2 stitches together
SSK = slip 2 stitches knitwise, one at a time onto right needle; insert point of left needle into front of 2 slipped stitches; knit through back of loops with right needle
Short Row Pattern
The short row pattern is worked in the round. I figured it out after charting the Lizard Ridge pattern. It is the mirror image of rows 1-6 of the Lizard Ridge basic pattern repeat. It made sense to flip the pattern horizontally, allowing row 4 to be knitted right to left in the round. (I usually knit right handed). It assumes that you’ve placed 2 markers, 1 seven stitches before the end of the round and 1 at the end of the round.
Rounds 1-3: K (slipping markers as necessary)
Round 4: K12, (WT P8 WT K7 WT P6 WT K5 WT P4 WT K20) to last 2st, WT P8 WT K7 WT P6 WT K5 WT P4 WT, k to end of round.
Round 5: K (slipping markers as necessary)
Round 6: K to 1st marker. This is your new end of round. (Leave last 7 st on left needle, so that they are knit at the start of the next round. )
Rounds 7 – 11: Treat the 1st marker as the end of the row, and repeat rounds 1 – 5.
Round 12: K to 1st marker (end of round for rounds 6-11), sm, k7, sm. The second marker is now the end of round marker again.
And in case it helps, the chart for rounds 1-6.
For the larger size – don’t worry! Just keep knitting from the same end of the ball of kureyon.
To ‘change colour’, break MC yarn and join in the yarn tail from the opposite end of the MC ball.
The small/medium version, pictured immediately to the right, assumes a change to MC at the start of round 7, and includes color changes at the start of the following rounds:
Round 10 (round 8 of the short row pattern)
Round 17 (round 3 of the short row pattern)
Round 19 (round 5 of the short row pattern)
Round 29 (round 3 of the short row pattern)
Round 31 (round 5 of the short row pattern)
Main part of hat
Using CC and 4.5mm needle(s), cast on 98 stitches loosely, using long tail cast on or similar.
Join into round.
Round 1: K to last 7 st, pm, K7, pm.
You should now have 2 markers, the second of which marks the end of the round.
Round 2: K.
Round 3 – 6: follow rounds 1-4 of the short row pattern.
Break CC yarn and join in MC (or after round 6 of the short row pattern).
Round 7 – 14: work rounds 5 – 12 of the short row pattern.
Rounds 15 – 38: work rounds 1 – 12 of the short row pattern twice more.
At this point you should be just about to run out of MC. Join CC back in. (If you can work in MC a bit more, join CC back in immediately before you work the last actual short row round. )
Rounds 39 – 43: work rounds 1 – 5 of the short row pattern. During round 43, remove the 1st marker, leaving the 2nd marker in place at the end of the round.
Shaping the crown
Round 44: K6 K2tog, (K12 K2tog) to last 6 st, K6. 91 st left.
Round 45: K4 SSK K3 K2tog, (K6 SSK K3 K2tog) to last 2 st, K2. 77st left.
Round 46: K to end
Round 47: (K2tog K9) to end. 70 st left.
Round 48: K to end
These five rounds shape the ‘points’ of the crown.
Round 49: K4, (K2tog K8) to last 6 st, K2tog K4. 63 st left.
Round 50: K to end
Round 51: K3, (K2tog K7) to last 6 st, K2tog K4. 56 st left.
Round 52: K to end
Round 53: K2, (K2tog K6) to last 6 st, K2tog K4. 49 st left.
Round 54: K to end
Round 55: K1, (K2tog K5) to last 6 st, K2tog K4. 42 st left.
Round 56: K to end
Round 57: (K2tog K4) to end. 35 st left.
Round 58: K to last st, sl1.
Remove marker and slip the last 3 st from the right needle back to the left. Place marker on right needle. Slip the first 2st on the left needle back to the right needle after the marker. The marker shows the new position of the end of the round.
Round 59: Continue with K2tog, (K3 K2tog) to last st (before the marker), K1. 28 st left.
Round 60: K to end
Round 61: K1, (K2tog K2) to last 3st, K2tog K1. 21 st left.
Round 62: (K2tog K1) to end. 14 st left.
Round 63: K2tog all to end
Break yarn, leaving a decent tail (~ 7 inches). Using a tapestry needle, thread the yarn end through the last 7 stitches. Take the stitches off the needles. Thread the yarn through the stitches again, pulling tight as you go and weave in the loose end.
Weave in any other loose ends.
Wash at 40 degrees normal cycle with a few tea towels. Air dry. This felts it a bit and shrinks it very slightly.
Block lightly, bearing in mind that the crown is meant to have ‘bubbles’ at each of the 7 points.
© 2007 – zeph, all rights reserved. For personal use only.